Style Differences: Derbys & Oxfords Vs Brogues

With so many styles to choose from, choosing a pair of formal shoes can sometimes be a little overwhelming. But when it comes to Brogues, it's wonderfully simple. A Brogue isn't a type of shoe but the detailing that adorns it. Both the Derby style and Oxford style can have brogue detailing.  When we talk about style differences, we’ll compare the Oxford Brogue to a Derby Brogue and explain broguing too. 

What Are Brogues?

In short, a beautifully unique shoe with plenty of character. They’ll add a wonderful (fashion) flare to a wide range of occasions thanks to their intricate detailing. If you’re looking to add a touch of style to your wardrobe, shop Brogues here. 

The Brogue can take form in either a classic shoe or country boot. The Brogue name refers to the decorative pattern punched into the leather. This iconic brogue detailing consists of various-sized holes and serrated edging along the shoe’s toe cap and seams. As mentioned above, any shoe could have the brogue detailing to be called a Brogue. 

A Brief History

Originating from Scotland and Ireland, the Brogue was traditionally worn as farming and country footwear and built with strong leather. The original perforations meant that any water that made its way onto or into the shoe would dry faster as liquids had a means of faster escape. Today, the modern brogue is a truly iconic footwear choice complementing both casual and formal occasions. 

Brogue Styles & Detailing 

Along with the serrated edging and perforations, you’ll find many Brogue styles incorporating a brogue medallion in the centre of the shoe’s toe cap. There’s no real function behind the medallion, but it takes the shape of a floral or geometric motif. 

When To Wear Brogues 

Shoe formality differs between Brogue styles, we’ll cover exactly when it’s appropriate to wear them and how.

Generally, the darker the leather, the more formal the aesthetic. Leather Brogues are a popular choice for smart-casual to semi-formal occasions, however, Quarter Brogues can be black tie appropriate. 

Wingtip Brogues 

A Wingtip Brogue or Full Brogue features the classic winged toe cap that can stretch along the shoe's uppers. The ‘W’ or winged design of the toe cap lends itself to the shoe's name. 

When & How To Wear Wingtip or Full Brogues 

Wingtip styles are generally considered the least formal Brogue and are most suited to casual or semi-formal occasions. For something casual, choose denim or chinos and pair them with a casual button shirt, cardigan or jumper. For something a little more formal you can easily opt for a blazer, shirt and even a fun waistcoat for style. 

Black Wingtip Brogues are a formal choice and should be paired with darker-coloured garments. Brown Wingtip Brogues are a versatile choice, they’ll pair well with a large range of colours. 

Avoid this style for black-tie events and choose a plain Oxford shoe instead. 

Half Brogues 

The Semi-Brogue or Half Brogue doesn’t sport the stunning wingtip but still has the toe cap with brogueing along the seams and edging. Essentially this style just carries less of the patterning across the entire shoe. Some styles may still have brogue detailing at the top, plus the top cap medallion. 

When & How To Wear Half Brogues 

Half Brogues are still regarded as a semi-formal option and can be appropriate for business casual attire. You’ll find greater versatility in wear by selecting darker leather shades like black and dark brown.

Smart Casual to Casual - pair with chinos, blazers and a button shirt or dark denims, jumpers for a casual look. 

Can Half Brogues Be Worn With a Suit? 

For a “relaxed” look, yes, they can be worn with a suit. Suit or jeans - you can truly have it both ways. 

Quarter Brogues 

The simplest in design and broguing, the straight-toe cap of the Quarter Brogue will have detailing along the edge and no other across the entire shoe. 

When & How To Wear Wingtip or Full Brogues 

The most formal Brogue - with a beautiful but subtle level of detailing. This style is well suited to formal events, black tie and business occasions. Pair with suits and suit trousers and a crisp shirt or a smart blazer. 

Brogue Boots  

Lastly, let’s not forget the Brogue Boot — true country footwear built ruggedly and strong. This style reaches above the ankle for greater support and protection. Perfect for smart casual to casual occasions, the Brogue Boot is versatile and completely synonymous with country style. 

 The Oxford - Derby Difference 

When we compare Oxford Brogues and Derby Brogues, we’re really just comparing Oxfords and Derbies. As we know, a “Brogue” shoe simply refers to the detailing and patterning. However, it’s worth mentioning, the key differences in both styles. That said, if you want to know more specifics about the styles, take a look at our comparative guide here. 

 H2 (Header): Oxford Brogues 

• Closed lacing system 

• Highly formal - suited to formal occasions 

• Eyelet facings are stitched under the vamp for a sleek profile

• The closed lacing system is best suited for those with a slimmer foot 

Derby Brogues 

• Open lacing system 

• Less formal but highly versatile - from casual to semi-formal

• Eyelets are stitched to the top of the vamp for a relaxed aesthetic 

• Better adjustable fit thanks to the spacing between the two eyelet tabs (over the tongue)

• Available in boot styles 

Find leather Brogues; Oxfords, Derby’s and Derby Boot styles online with A Fine Pair of Shoes. Shop now and receive free delivery on orders over £40.