Derbies Vs Oxfords What’s The Difference?
A Brief History
Oxford Shoes - Possibly originating in Oxford, England during the 19th Century, it’s thought they were named after the University of Oxford. Worn by students, these shoes began as knee-high boots. By 1825 the boots were cut down to a shorter length with button fastenings and named Oxoniana. However, there are other versions of this origin story, some noting Balmoral Castle as the birthplace of the shoe, invented by none other than Prince Albert.
Derby Shoes - Again it's difficult to pinpoint the exact origin of the shoe but as references suggest, the shoe became widely recognised as a sporting shoe in the 19th Century. Early 1862 records refer to a boot rather than a shoe. Another ten years later a magazine describes the “Derby” as a better version of the Oxford thanks to the placement of the seam, comfortably, away from the foot's “tender” area. It’s thought this refers to the comfortable position of the vamp which allowed the shoe to expand with wear.
The Derby shoe may have evolved from the Oxford or originated as a military shoe during the Napoleonic wars, however, we’re in the dark here as nothing is confirmed.
Traditional, Open Laced Derbies
The Derby shoe’s open lacing system means that the lacing eyelets are on top of the vamp leaving a small gap between the quarters and the vamp. This allows the laces to tie without passing underneath the vamp. This open-lacing system provides greater comfort and flexibility as the foot swells with wear.
It’s also worth mentioning that the open-laced design makes it easier to put on and take off the shoe. The style and construction lend well to those with a high arch/instep or those with wider feet.
Classic, Closed Laced Oxford Shoe
In contrast, the lacing system of the Oxford is closed, here the shoelace eyelets are attached to the underside of the vamp as opposed to on top like Derby styles. The closed lacing system also provides a tighter fit allowing less movement and little expansion as the foot swells with wear.
Featuring a closed lace style, the Oxford shoe boasts a sleek silhouette but of course, the fit is restricted by the tightness of the facings.
So, What’s The Difference Between Derby And Oxford Shoes?
It’s not just the construction of the lacing piece that’s different, details like its soft round-toe-shape give the Derby shoe its casual edge. On the other hand, the strong slim toe of the Oxford shoes provides a strong, formal appearance.
If you’re looking to pair your formal footwear with a tux or morning suit we recommend choosing an Oxford style. For occasions requiring a little less formality, choose Derbies for laid-back casual or smart casual. Pair your Derbies with a suit, trouser-blazer combination or chinos, corduroys or jeans, they’re highly versatile taking you from office wear to casual wear.
As mentioned earlier the Oxford are best suited to those looking for a tight fit, and for those looking for a little flexibility in their shoes, or for those with wide or narrow feet the Derby lacing system will favour your foot shape.
In Comparison: Derby Vs. Oxford Shoes
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Derby Shoes |
Oxford Shoes |
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Find Your Fine Pair, Shop Oxford Shoes and Derby Shoes
Find your perfect pair with a Fine Pair of Shoes, shop wholecut Oxfords, constructed with a single leather piece, the epitome of sophistication. Or enjoy elegantly detailed Derby brogues adding a touch of personality to your wardrobe. Find classic toe cap Oxfords and plain, everyday Derbys. Whatever the occasion, whatever you’re style find it here.
Straight Cap Oxfords by Berwick 1707 https://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk/collections/oxford-shoes/products/berwick-1707-straight-cap-oxford-black
Wholecut Oxfords by Carlos Santos
Derby Brogues by Trickers
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Plain Country Grain Derby Shoes
