Casting A Light On Traditional Footwear Craftsmanship

Handmade shoes require a vast amount of skill and, in most cases, traditional shoe-making techniques. At A Fine Pair of Shoes, we’ve hand-selected footwear brands that prioritise quality and the traditional craft of fine footwear. Although a little steeper in price compared to your fast-fashion alternative, the brands and shoes we carry are a true testament to the art of shoe craft. 

So, why do these timeless shoes outlive trends and time itself? Traditional shoemaking techniques craft sustainable, built-to-last footwear of unmatched quality. Quite worth the price tag if you ask us. 

The makings of a truly traditional shoe 

From concept to retail, a handmade shoe means your shoes have been made by hand. This means sketched designs, leather clicking (cutting) and shoe sowing are all carried out by hand & eye, and this is exactly how it would have been done some hundreds of years ago. However, things have changed a little since then. It’s quite unlikely you’ll find a pair of shoes that have been completely untouched by any sort of machine during the shoe-making process in this day and age. 

Some footwear brands born from traditional shoemaking techniques will continue to use some of these original handcrafting techniques. In our current economy, it doesn’t make sense to omit the use of machines during the shoemaking process. Nowadays, your “traditional”, “handcrafted”, or “handmade” shoes won’t be primarily made using machines, however, some steps in the process may use machinery to simply improve efficiency and accuracy.  

Handmade vs handcrafted shoes 

Handmade shoes - should be entirely made by hand, without or with minimal use of some sort of machinery. Traditional shoe-making techniques will be used, utilising skilled shoe craftspersons. 

Handcrafted shoes - combine both machinery and handiwork techniques in their construction. Machines may be used for certain steps in the shoemaking process but skilled professionals will still take on the majority of the workload.

How are shoes made?

Many brands, however rooted in traditional shoe-making techniques in their construction, have modernised and innovated original methods or use a combination of both. For more information on specific brands and their shoemaking techniques take a look at our Shoe Brand Guide here.

Handmade and handcrafted shoes like Oxfords, Brogues and Derbies all operate a meticulous shoemaking process and have done so for hundreds of years. Not much has changed apart from a few modernisations in the process.

Shoe Lasts 

Initially, a design and last will be created; for example, Trickers, like many other shoe brands, still uses lasts commissioned in 1937 to create two of their best-selling shoes today. A shoe last is essentially a foot-shaped form that materials are moulded to during the shoe’s construction process - they essentially develop a shoe’s shape and structure. For more information on last styles and guidance on finding your ideal shoe shape - take a look at our shoe last guide here. 

Materials 

Leathers are chosen based on quality, they might be dyed and conditioned on-site or produced elsewhere and brought into the manufacturing facility. Leathers can be reworked on-site using skiving techniques and thinning methods, both of which provide increased material flexibility. Materials are predominantly cut by hand however cutting machines may be used for particular shoe parts.

After the leathers, the process moves to building the foundation of the shoe, the sole - often made from cork, leather or rubber, the shoe’s linings - for greater comfort, and then the threads that hold all the shoe parts together. 

Techniques

Once the materials have been selected, conditioned and cut the leathers are then stitched together to form the shoe uppers either by hand or with the aid of a sewing machine. More often than not, this step will utilise a sewing machine for accuracy. Brougue detailing or decorative stitching will also be applied during this step. 

The uppers are then stretched over the last, shaping the shoe. As the shoe takes shape on the last, the uppers are then secured to the insole. The uppers and insole are sewn onto a welt, often a Goodyear welt, a strip of leather, which is then fixed directly onto the shoe’s sole. The welt provides greater durability and strength with the benefit of providing a water-resistant seal. The sole can also be removed easily for shoe resoling.

Finally, shoe finishing will take place, this step includes trimming down any excess leather, sole or heel. 

Skill 

Every step of the shoe-making process requires skilled Cordwainers. Years of training are required to qualify as a professional shoemaker. It’s quite an art form, one that requires strong dedication and attention to detail. 

For those larger shoe manufacturers, each step of the shoe-making process may be carried out by a single person or team. For example, a skilled cutter, or “clicker” as they are known, will look after the cutting and inspection of shoe materials. The materials will then be passed to a stitcher, to the laster for moulding, then to the welter, the sole attacher, heeler, trimmer and finally the finisher. In some bespoke shoe houses or smaller shoe houses, a single shoemaker could look after all these steps, focusing on one shoe at a time. 

The undeniable value of handmade shoes 

Long-lasting

Handmade shoes are built to last; hand-stitching, quality leathers and welted soles all add powerful value to the shoe. These styles are designed to last almost a lifetime (with proper care). Quality footwear can be repaired and resoled, extending the lifespan of your footwear so you really get your money's worth. 

Comfortable

Natural leather also provides a breathable, comfortable fit that will eventually conform to the wearer's foot. Cork fills in between the insole and outsole, compressing over time for a unique, custom fit. 

Timeless 

A lot of the brands and shoes we carry in the A Fine Pair of Shoes range have rich histories and unique styles. From legacies, royal warrants, British-made, traditional country shoe turned iconic fashion statement, Goodyear welts and more, you’re investing in a statement. 

Each handcrafted shoe will be uniquely yours, with unique characteristics and the tell-tale comfort that comes with wear. As the leather uppers and cork sole soften with wear, you’re left with a shoe tailored to your foot for optimal comfort. 

Sustainable 

Handcrafted shoes aren’t mass-produced, they simply can’t be as an extensive amount of time goes into each shoe. As they’re designed to last, using sustainable material choices, you’re essentially helping reduce waste - they really are a great option for the sustainably conscious consumer down to materials, longevity and craft.

Why are handmade shoes on the pricey side?

As explained above, a lot of time and skill goes into making each shoe. Handmaking shoes requires an extreme amount of skill, some of which take years to learn. The process can take anywhere between two hours to a full day's work. When you compare this to a mass-produced shoe -which wouldn’t take longer than an hour at best- with standard materials and construction, the price is quite justified. 

Lastly, you have a long life expectancy with this type of footwear; a quality pair might set you back £200, but you could end up getting some 10 years of use out of them. Consider how many pairs of commercially manufactured shoes you would end up buying in a 10-year period. We’ve done the maths and you’ll always come out better off making a quality investment. 

Time, skill, quality and build are all accounted for in a handcrafted shoe's price. Find beautifully crafted shoes here. 

Is it worth investing in a pair of handmade shoes?

In summary, we would have to say yes. Down to the superior quality and longevity when it comes to handmade and handcrafted shoes. Although you might pay a little more upfront, they’re designed to last. The shoes you find on the high street just arn’t. We admire the classic, clean aesthetic of a well-made pair of shoes, and if you do too, shop handmade leather shoes and boots online with A Fine Pair of Shoes. 

 Where to buy handmade leather shoes?

You’ll find handmade leather shoes online with A Fine Pair of Shoes. Browse shoes by occasion, size, style and brand. You’ll also find everything you need to take care of your shoe with our shoe care range. Spend over £40 online with us and receive free UK delivery. And if you’re shopping and browsing elsewhere in the world, receive free worldwide delivery when you spend £400. 

 

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