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Goodyear Welted Shoes & Boots - how its made and what makes it so special!

October 14, 2020

A Goodyear welt is a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that runs along the perimeter of a shoe outsole. The machinery used for the process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of Charles Goodyear. 
Construction

"Goodyear welted / welt construction" involves stitching a welt to the upper and a strip of preformed canvas like a "rib" that runs all around and bottom (known as "gemming") cemented to the insole of a shoe as an attach-point for the outsole or midsole (depending on the Goodyear welt variant). The space enclosed by the welt is then filled with cork or some other filler material (usually either porous or perforated, for breathability), and the outsole is both cemented and stitched to the welt. Shoes with other types of construction may also have welts.

Process

The Goodyear welt process is a machine-based alternative to the traditional hand-welted method (c. 1500) for the manufacture of men's shoes, allowing them to be resoled repeatedly.

The upper part of the shoe is shaped over the last and fastened on by sewing a leather, linen or synthetic strip (also known as the "welt") to the inner and upper sole. As well as using a welt, stitching holds the material firmly together.

The welt forms a cavity which is then filled with a cork material. The final part of the shoe is the sole, which is attached to the welt by some combination of stitching and a high strength adhesive like contact cement or hide glue. The result is highly valued for being relatively waterproof by minimizing water penetration into the insole and the relative ease of resoling as long as the upper remains viable. Welted shoes are more expensive to manufacture than those mass-produced by automated machinery with molded soles.


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Size Chart

Size Guide

International Sizing Chart
SIZE CONVERSION CHART - UK MENS SHOE SIZES

UK Size

6

6½

7

7½

8

8½

9

9½

10

10½

11

11½

12

USA Size

7

7½

8

8½

9

9½

10

10½

11

11½

12

12½

13

Euro Size    

 39½   

40

 41   

41½

42

42½

43

43½

44½

45

45½

46

46½

Japan Size

25

25.5

26 

26.5

 27  

27.5

 28 

 28.5 

29 

 29.5 

30  

 

 

Width Fittings 

All manufacturers use different letters to denote their width fittings. This does make life a bit tricky, so here is our simple to use table to give you a hand...
 
UK WidthUK WidthUSA WidthUSA Width
B
AA
V Narrow
C
A
D
V Narrow
B
Narrow
E
Narrow
C
F
Standard
D
Standard
G
Wide
E or EE
Wide
H
Extra Wide
EEEE
Extra Wide
x